Extracts from email correspondence in March and April below whilst traveling through Cuba and Mexico.

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March 19-29
Cuba – aka ‘Tropical Russia’ – was a confronting look at communism still in force, though we managed to enjoy ourselves at the same time and reinvigorate out love of capitalism!
I arrived in Cuba and reunited with Hailey after a five hour delay on Cubana de Aviación (Cuba’s national airline) caused by a mechanical problem with their dodgy second hand Russian jet was garaged and replaced with a slightly less dodgy second hand Russian jet. The specific plane I didn’t end up flying was retired by the Aeroflot in Russia in the 90s due to safety concerns (I looked it up on Wikipedia), and promptly sold to the Cuban government. Though it was only a 45 min flight from Mexico to Havana, this flight was probably the most nervous I have been on.
Hailey had arrived a day earlier and had her own issues (including wandering the streets of Habana at 2am the night before looking for a casa (house) to stay in and finding out her bank card didn’t work in Cuba). Netherless, after a bumpy start we started to enjoy the place.
The communist regime recently relaxed laws which had prohibited tourists from staying in anything but the shoddy and expensive government run hotels. We stayed the whole 10 days in private casas which were cheap ($20-$25 per night for a double room) and meant you got to know the locals, their families and eat real Cuban food. Each of the casas were magnificent colonial houses that gave an idea of the wealth that had once existed in Cuba. The casa owners still have to register with the government and pay a very high tax on any money they make, but it is a step towards entrepreneurship.
So what is Cuban food? Breakfast is about 4 types of fresh tropical fruit an usually eggs. As far as lunch/dinner is concerned there is only one main dish they seemed to serve everywhere that got tired after 2 days: rice and frijoles (rice and beans) with chicken cooked in a dark bean sauce and potatoes boiled in vinegar. We had this 3 nights in a row for the first three days we were there. All other meals are either variations on this, with a substitute of one ingredient.
Sadly food variety doesn’t really exist, aside from tropical fruit which was good. The government stores are very bare with one type of bread, milk, potatos, 2-3 fruit/veggies (tourists get extra fruit), etc.
In abundant supply is Havana Club rum, and cigars. I was sure to sample the mojito of most places we visited. We also got a peek inside one of the main cigar factories where they hand-make each one.
Havana, the capital, is a decaying jewel. It must have looked spectacular 60 years ago. There are apparently 1500 buildings alone in the historic centre that UNESCO classifies as historically significant. All styles from Spanish colonial, neo classical and tonnes of art deco are represented. Some money from the new tourism revenue is being reinvested by the city council into restoring these buildings, but most haven’t been looked after since the Revolution. The city reminded Hailey of level four (limbo) dream in the movie Inception.
So my highlights?
* Che Guvera, Jose Martinez and Fidel propaganda. Everywhere. EVERYWHERE.
* Architecture of Habana Vieja (old historic centre)
* The music: salsa, rumba (African sound), reggaeton (rap+reggae) and Sol (Cuban pop music) blasted out of every corner of the island – live bands were everywhere.
* ‘Jazz Club’ (we heard some incredible local musicians in this basement venue)
* Horse riding in Trinidad (a beautiful colonial city on south side of the island)
* Havana Melacon (an eight km road that winds around the city between the Florida Strait and the city. Very cool place to cruise around.
* Ice-cream, mohitos and Cuban cigars.
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March 29-April 15
I am currently in Guadalajara, Mexico’s 2nd biggest city of 4.5m habitantes, where Hailey is currently studying. Guada is better known for some of it’s exports: mariachi music, cubism & mural painter José Clemente Orozco and tequila (which is unique to the region and a protected brand defined by its region, like Champagne in France).
I’ve been in Mexico for almost three weeks now. And the vibe here is rich in colour, flavor, textures, sounds, smells. Very absorbing. Mexico is the kind of place you could wind up in for ten years and not remember when you arrived.
80%-90% of Mexicans are in some way of indigenous ethnicity, and a lot of pre-Hispanic culture is mixed with the inherited Spanish culture in a unique blend. Someone from Venezuala described to me the other day that other Latin American countries envy Mexico as it has “a more complete culture” – that is, he explained: the best, unique and most iconic food in Latin America tends to be or is influenced by Mexican food. The best films each year are mostly Mexican, the best music, writers and artists…
Well, the food is so so good. I’ll have withdrawals from tacos when I get back to Australia.. There are so many flavors of each type of food group: tacos, enchiladas, quesedilla, burritos, buros, pastes (Mexican versions of a baked pasty), tomali (corn and stuff baked inside corn leaves… And more i can’t remember off the top of my head. A lot of the food is hard to describe, even when it is sitting in front of you. But is delicious and there is always loads of different salsas, dips, mole (sauces) going around to keep things interesting as well. It is incredible cheap (tacos cost around $0.50 each) but I won’t write more on the subject as I consider it cruel to tease you with the thought of it!
So far I have traveled to the city of Guanajuato – a colonial mining town from the 1500s where around 40% of the America’s silver once came from. A large amount of the spoils was poured back into cathedrals, mansions, theatres, plazas, monuments. It is easily the most beautiful town i have seen in Mexico. Pictures to come once I get them off my SLR in Melbourne
I also travelled to chaotic Mexico City – home to 22 million people – and had a great time exploring the many sites, pockets of cool inner city suburbs, food (amazing street food), climbed the ancient pyramids of Teotihuacan and paid tribute to the Sun God.
Today we are on a bus en route to the Pacific Ocean. We’ll be staying at a former winter retreat of a wealthy european family – it is in the middle of nowhere with a private beach, etc. It should be awesome.
Next week we travel to Baja California Sur – the long western peninsular that adjoins California in the north and the Pacfic Ocean to the West. This is where fish tacos are from, and i intend to each my weight in them before heading back to Australia on the 26th.
Below are some pictures i took on my iPhone for those not on, or interested in, Facebook (click the links below to view). I’ll have a slide night in Melbourne once I get home and get the good photos off my big camera. In the meantime:
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